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24Jul/116

Troubleshooting: 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee (ZJ) Doesn’t Start – Cranks, No Fuel, No Spark

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This has been one of the most frustrating repairs we have come across. One day the Jeep just plain refused to start anymore. We have had prolonged starting times for a while now where we will let fuel pump prime at least twice before it would start, but it would always start. Nothing really precluded the no start condition, we just turned it off one day and it didn't want to start again. The symptoms don't really point to any particular component (other than the PCM) and without some fancy tools, you'll do exactly what we did - replace the PCM... and it won't fix anything. So we took out our fancy tool, looked up some diagnostic diagrams on alldatadiy.com, and got to work.

A few things to check for right away to see if you're having the same issue we were:

  • Check to see if the fuel pump runs during cranking - ours didn't
  • Check for spark during cranking - we didn't have any
  • Check to see if your check engine light is on (ours WASN'T)
  • Check your voltage and fuel gauges with the ignition on - ours didn't register anything
  • Check to see if your low fuel light is on - our was

  • Fancy tool time - we hooked up the Genisys EVO to the data link connecter (located under the steering wheel):

    We first tried to connect to the PCM computer to view the Datastream (and check codes) - whatever it would tell us:

    Aaaaand it said it didn't want to talk to us:

    Then we moved on to the BUS monitor to see if the bus was up and what computers we could talk to:

    Looks like the Body computer (BCM) is willing to talk to us:

    Now, we see the bus is up, the PCM appears to be down - so we replaced the PCM. Unfortunately replacing the PCM did absolutely nothing for us other than lighten our wallets. At this point, we did some digging on AllDataDiy for an appropriate troubleshooting test to figure out what on earth was going on. While I can't re-publish their content due to the ToS agreement, I can tell you how we arrived at our final solution.

    We started by testing the Throttle Position Sensor voltages:

    Pin 3 should be above 4 volts:

    Since it was under 4 volts, we unplugged the Camshaft Position Sensor (connector locations below - this is the passenger side of the engine compartment):

    And checked again - still under 4 volts:

    Then we unplugged the Crankshaft Position Sensor and checked voltage again:

    Finally, a bad component! We replaced the Crankshaft Position Sensor and verified that all was well

    Fuel Gauges now work, voltage works, and the low fuel light isn't on anymore

    We started it up and checked the ECM datastream again - all systems go

    Now, the troubleshooting procedure we started out with had us unplug the ECM at the beginning and then test the TPS pin 3 voltage - but these pictures are from us reproducing it after the fact and we forgot to unplug the ECM first... so we logged a code:

    I mention this code just as a side note - we cleared the code with the EVO, but if you just ignore it long enough it'll go away after a few cycles.

Comments (6) Trackbacks (1)
  1. Saved me tons of time , did this check and it fixed the problem !! Bad crank sensor !!!

    Thanks !!

    Shawn

  2. Thank you very much for writing this out in such detail. I just had the exact same thing happen to my 98 ZJ 4.0. Ran fine and then would start. No spark, no fuel, ASD relay good. I noticed that the gauges weren’t coming up when the key was in the run position and that was the search term that found this page.

    Read here. Disconnected CPS harness. Gauges came up. Reconnected = gauges dead. Tried to manipulate wires in case it was a short. Still dead.

    $45, life time warrantied, sensor and it’s back up and running.

    Getting the old sensor out was quick and easy with several ratchet extensions. Dropping the new on in was easy. Getting the bracket/shroud in place and starting the bolt was about 2 hours of very frustrating screwing around.

    Thanks again. I don’t know how long I would have struggled to find this without your help.

  3. thank you for putting in terms i could understand and for the ease of fixing mt problem

  4. great article, saved my saturday.

  5. I have a similar problem with my grand cherokee laredo (2000), the engine shut down while in motion and has refused to start since. Checked everything but no show. The crossed key indicator on the dashboard remains on constantly and there is no fuel supply to the injectors. It cranks fine but doesn’t start, also the light in the shape of an engine comes on once you attempt to crank it. The annalyzer could not communicate with the car at all……no sign and no codes came up at all. My mechanic says the sensor on my key has exopired and I will need to change the key, transponder and brainbox! Is this true?

  6. I have 98 JGCL 4×4 straight 6. Started cutting out at stop signs mostly, then sometimes at high speeds. Threw code ignition coil pack, replaced. Problem still there. Next threw Map sensor code. Replaced. Not fixed. Did research, started jiggling wires. Found that if I put pressure on the ecm, the car would mimic the stalling that was occurring. So I figure there is a crack in the ecm, causing humidity to get in and increase the voltage, throwing codes and cutting engine off. I jammed a stick behind the ecm and tightened the 3 screws down pretty tight (to put pressure on ecm box and maybe close the crack. BINGO jeep runs great for almost a week. Then it rains. Car stalls and wont restart. Thinking maybe the humidity from the rain softened the stick i had behind the ecm and allowed the crack to re-open. Had it towed to an honest mechanic. Bought a new ecm, put it on and still wont start. Sounds like it wants to start. Timing is good. spark is good. But no start. Changed plugs as I had fouled them with gas while trying to start it in the rain (family of 5 in tow.) Cant figure out what is keeping my Jeep from firing up. Sounds like its REALLY REALLY trying hard to start. PLEASE HELP


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